Paris may not be the city that comes to mind when considering cities that offer incredible Italian cuisine. However, I’d like to suggest that, perhaps, we add it to the map? Since moving to the French capital several months ago, I’ve been blown away by the quality, quantity and centrality of Italian food, even in Paris, where you can find quintessentially French fromageries and boulangeries on every corner. Owing its prevalence perhaps to the large Italian expat community here, as well as the proximity of both European communities and cultures, there is no shortage of quality coffee, gelato and, of course, pizza. So, my ever-inquisitive mind decided to embark on a journalistic inquiry into some of Paris’ finest Italian cuisine, much, as you can imagine, to the despair of my friends. They were, of course, distraught at my attempts to rope them into multiple pizza nights, and many last-minute coffee dates, all in the name of ‘research.’
The first thing I noticed here was the predominance of Italian, over American, pizza. You’d be hard pressed to find a thick, doughy base here anywhere beyond classic chains and, honestly, I’m all for it. We tasted multiple pizzas from a range of Italian restaurants, all takeaway of course, no thanks to Big ‘Rona. Ranging from the average to the superior, I’d certainly say I’ve become an expert on rating pizza. Almost compensates for my lack of Italian speaking ability. At the top of the list ranks IT Trattoria in Rambuteau, the objective best in terms of cheese quality and overall taste.
For me, the more flavour, the better, hence why it takes the top spot, over the 17th Arrondissement’s Trionfo (squeaky cheese – see below for reference) and the even more disappointing New Years’ Eve order, from La Romana in the 10th. Whilst my friends were more than happy with the quality, I wasn’t so sure. May have something to do with the surprise olives on my margherita. Not impressed.
To take my investigation a step further, I ventured out to Paris’ infamous Marais district in search of some excellent coffee. As a certified caffeine addict, I can safely say that Italian coffee, just objectively, is the best. From the cappuccino I savoured daily at Capriccio Sorentino near the Eiffel Tower, 5 minutes from my flat, to the quality espresso I found at pretty much every Italian restaurant or café, just take my word for it. And don’t tell my French colleagues and friends, please. That and, of course, the gelato – look no further than Pozzetto, where I (correctly) ordered ‘de la glace au cioccolato fondente.’ Honestly, don’t even bother reading the other flavours…
One of the great surprises, though, was the blend of Italian and French cuisine I happened upon purely by chance. No doubt, any French-branded Tiramisu is fabulous, but I spotted a real mix of the cultures when walking past a stylish Italian bakery/shop/produce store/café, known as Eataly. Aside from the glorious array of arancini, Italian cheeses, prosciutto and much more, I had to pause and laugh upon discovery of a Tiramisu-flavoured ‘buche.’ You see, in France, around the Christmas season, all you can find is this iconic dessert. A mix between a cake, a yule log, and sometimes even ice cream, it is the epitome of all things French. You can’t help but notice the irony of a Tiramisu-flavoured one. A true match made in heaven, no? Sadly, I didn’t get to try it, but I did leave the shop giggling at the Italian take on something so purely francais. Very amusing.
So there you have it: a semi-comprehensive research project into Italian food culture here in the heart of Paris. From a pizza main course, all the way through to dessert and an after-dinner café, you can find everything you’d want in Italy in my favourite French city. Just, perhaps, with a slight air of ‘frenchness’ trying to sneak its way in.
Erin Waks